Belfast

Belfast is a city we’ve visited before. I first visited in the late 1980’s on a choir tour, when a strong military  presence was evident, the tension high, but the welcome was warm. More recently I’d visited for work, fortunate enough to meet fabulous people, host conferences and events in some of the famous tourist attractions and take a little time to explore with Ian who occasionally joined me. We’d both enjoyed our time here, but knew there was plenty more we wanted to do, so decided to stay for a few days before setting off to explore further.

The docks are so central in Belfast, within 20 minutes we’d arrived at our council run camping park, on the edge of the Lough. A perfect base to get into the city and further afield.  

Heading into the city we met a fabulous American lady at the bus stop, she was in Belfast with her daughter who was just starting university. She lives in Cairo and has spent her life teaching around the world. A fascinating person who inspired us to consider visiting Egypt soon (it’s been on the list for a while).

Having done many of the usual tourist attractions, we headed out to Crumin Road Goal. It’s a formidable building that housed prisoners from1845 until 1996. Most recently known for housing  prisoners through the Troubles, its history is chilling. Women, children, lunatics, political prisoners, and hangings, you hear about them all as you visit.

From the tunnel where prisoners were walked from the jail to the courthouse, to the central area where the Wings connected (based on Pentonville Prison).

You learn about the children held here, how things changed over time. The Suffragettes, the medical facilities and the political prisoners. There are some interesting interviews with recent prisoners held during the Troubles (from each side) who now work towards ensuring lasting peace together, but were most definitely the strongest of opponents when inmates. When the prison opened it held 106 prisoners. In the 1970’s the overcrowding became so acute that the International Red Cross were allowed to inspect the  prison, finding 864 prisoners, in a jail built for 475. 

The whole place certainly has an atmosphere, it may have been me, but standing in the execution chamber where Thomas Pierrepoint acted as the gaol's most regular hangman was extraordinary. The last execution took place in 1961. It feels so recent, and yet so alien. Somewhere certainly worth a visit, but not one to do if looking for an uplifting experience.

To lighten the mood, we headed back into town, had a wander around the murals we passed and headed for dinner at The Dirty Onion. Expensive, but delicious!

The city has certainly changed even since we last visited about 8 years ago, it feels lighter, less of an undercurrent, in fact, I’d say no undercurrent was felt in the city. Hopefully a sign of continuing peace as the younger generation who haven’t lived through the troubles live their lives without division. 

It was good to get back to our campsite, admire the view and prepare to travel the Causeway Coastal route.